Comments on: Knot of the Week: Threaded Figure-Eight

By: Austin Kopp

Austin Kopp — Fri, 20 May 2011 19:40:09 +0000

Using anything other than a dynamic rope while climbing is a dire mistake. 550 cord is a great substance, no doubt about it, and it takes a lot of weight, but it is simply not made to take the weight and force of a person falling any distance between their last anchor and their current position on the rock or icefall. Also, the overhand knot on the traced figure 8 is not really to stop the rope from slipping. If the knot slips, it was not tied tight enough, and you are pretty much screwed anyway, unless you are VERY lucky. The overhand is really to keep the slack out and away from the climbers feet so it doesnt fray.

By: gilligan0211

gilligan0211 — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:49:35 +0000

Not that I recommend ever taking shortcuts, ever… but there is something that makes this much easier. The single 8, and then rethreading it takes quite a bit of time when you’re in a hurry. We were taught, that to save time, you could take the rope and fold it over where you will need your loop. You can make the loop as big or as small as you want (this would even work in the rappelling guide to save anchoring time). Practice your 8 with a single rope, and once you are doing alright with that, practice folding your rope over, and folding your “double 8″ with two ropes kept side by side. Basically, take a short rope, fold it in half. Let the loose ends hang to one side (your left or your right depending on dominance). Now pretend you are holding one piece of rope, and keep the two strands together (as if maybe holding a thick, akwardly shaped tape or web). Then tie your figure 8. Viola, you have your loop, now tie on your slipknot, and hit the wall.

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Fri, 22 May 2009 15:08:24 +0000

It would depend on what the conditions were during the emergency and what type of 550 you are using, different types have different breaking strengths… Check this link out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parachute_cord

By: BootlegGucci

BootlegGucci — Fri, 22 May 2009 04:00:37 +0000

Wow I had no idea an ocean current could do that kind of damage! Do you think in a dire emergency 550 cord would be sufficient to hold the body weight of one adult (say 200lbs at max)?

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Thu, 21 May 2009 17:36:26 +0000

Sure, it would be just as effective. I wouldn’t use 550 cord in a life saving application though. I’ve seen plenty of 550 break with the right force applied to it. Ocean current in particular can snap 550 and even tubular webbing!

By: BootlegGucci

BootlegGucci — Thu, 21 May 2009 05:03:15 +0000

Would the threaded figure-eight be just as effective using 550 cord? Would the knot lose any strength, security, or stability? I’ve practiced the knot with 550 cord and it seems to be very strong.