Learn How to Rappel: Part 1, Equipment

Rappelling properly and safely is a tremendous skillset to have, and one that we feel deserves it’s own how to series.

Each week we’ll be presenting you with another part of our “Learn How to Rappel” series with photos and YouTube video.

In the first part of our “Learn How to Rappel” series, we’ll be going over the basic equipment needed to set up a rappel.

Rope

The first and most important item in rappelling is obviously the rope, even if you had no other equipment you could rappel down a cliff with nothing more than a rope. The rope we’re using in this demonstration is a 150 ft., 11mm BlueWater Assaultline.

Static Rope vs. Dynamic Rope

The two kinds of rope available to a climber are static and dynamic. Dynamic ropes are best for actual climbing, such as top rope and lead climbing. They’re designed to absorb the shock of a climber’s fall while on belay. This elongation of the dynamic rope reduces the force applied to the climber, belayer and their equipment.

Static ropes will not absorb the shock of a climber’s fall and are typically used in rappelling and rescue situations. Static rope is also more wear resistant than dynamic and will handle use and abuse better.

Ropes should be purchased new and you should never climb a rope that hasn’t been inspected for damage. Keep your ropes between 9 and 11 mm and always buy the right length for your climbing area.

We show a Blackhawk Tactical Rappel Rope Bag in our video which alleviates having to throw the entire rope down to the ground, you can simply kick over the rope bag, and if it’s coiled correctly inside it will hit the ground without letting any unnecessary rope out. It can also be attached to your leg so no one will hear you coming.

Tubular Webbing

Webbing is invaluable in climbing and has a multitude of uses. In rappelling it’s useful to have tubular webbing to backup your rope in case your tie-off point isn’t as secure as you’d thought. In our setup, the tubular webbing acts as a safety pro in case our permanent climbing bolts fail.

Tubular Webbing is typically available from your local climbing store or REI for sale by the yard.

Prusik Loop

When rappelling a Prusik loop is your lifeline. It attaches below the rappel device and connected to the leg loop of the harness. The knot is held with the braking hand to slide it along during rappelling.

Check out our Knot of the Week climbing series for information on the Prusik Knot.

Climbing Harness

Without getting into different types of climbing harnesses, make sure you’re using a harness that fits and is comfortable. You’ll want at least a few inches left over at each buckle or clip in point to double back and tie off any slack with an overhand knot.

It’s also important that the harness is built well and has a belay loop that features double thickness webbing that has multiple bar tacks. The harness we’re using is a Yates Tactical Rappel Belt with cobra buckles on the leg straps which makes taking the harness on and off very easy.

Figure 8 Rappel Device

The use of a figure 8 rappel device makes rappelling much easier and will allow direct attachment to the rope without having to use multiple carabiners. They can be very hot after a long rappel, so use caution when removing them from the rope.

The figure 8 we’re using is a BlueWater Figure 8 Belay Device.

Carabiners

The carabiners we’ve used are a mix of asymmetrical D carabiners that we refer to as lead carabiners. Asymmetrical carabiners have a larger gate opening but have deceivingly less space inside the D carabiner. They’re typically used for lead climbing and some top roping applications.

Two of the three carabiners we used have manually locking gates and one is automatic, which is used to attach the Figure 8. On manually locking carabiners remember to screw the locking mechanism down, so you don’t screw up!

Essentially what that means is that you want your locking gate to be carried into the locked position with gravity. If it becomes loose, it’s better to not have gravity trying to loosen it further.

With the rappelling setup we’ll be showing, don’t worry about symmetrical vs. asymmetrical, just make sure they having a locking gate.

Rappelling Gloves

Rappelling gloves are also an important part of rappelling to prevent friction burns on your hands. If you’ve ever grabbed a moving rope then you’ll know how bad a friction burn can be, they’re not fun, and protecting your hands is important in rappelling.

We’re using Blackhawk HellStorm Fastrope Gloveswhich can be used for rappelling and fast roping.

Rope Edge Guard

Protecting your rope from the rock faces or rooftops during a rappel will extend the life of your rope by preventing fraying as the rope moves back and forth. The guard we used in the video isn’t made for this purpose, but we couldn’t find ours and something is better than nothing!

There are a few companies that make them out there, but we’re partial to the BlueWater Rope Guard

That wraps up the basic equipment needed for rappellling, stay tuned as we continue with part 2 of “Learn how to Rappel”. As always, if you have any questions or comments post away!

This information is provided solely as reference to supplement proper rappelling training from an experienced guide, not replace it. Rappelling is one of the most dangerous things you can do in climbing because you have to rely on your equipment and anchors 100%.