Comments on: Learn How to Rappel: Part 2, Setup

By: Joseph Lujan

Joseph Lujan — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 00:27:31 +0000

When I was in search and rescue and we’d train on bolts at a local cliff, we’d use a double loop or “bunny ear” figure eight with a couple of carabiners to even out the pressure on the bolts.
I think that would simplify this rig pretty well. What do you think?

By: Diego

Diego — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 20:23:50 +0000

oh right on thats a new knot i had never used. could you use rope instead of nylon webbing to make the back up?

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 13:55:37 +0000

Diego,

On the webbing portion that backs up the system, a tape knot was used http://www.itstactical.com/2009/05/11/knot-of-the-week-tape-knot/ and it does have overhand safeties on both sides.

Thanks for the comment!

By: Diego

Diego — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 04:51:41 +0000

Hey im not an expert at rappelling or climbing for that matter but i do it for fun once or twice a week. i have a question about the redundant diamond back up system that you built with the nylon webbing. when you tied the two ends to create the closed loop what kind of know did you use? and i was thinking could you maybe use 66mm rope like one that you buy by the foot or something and use a square knot with an overhand safety on both sides to finish off the redundant safety anchor? Thanks!!1

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:12:08 +0000

Alex,

Thank you for the link and information. We’re aware of the american triangle, and have spoke about it in this article. We’re looking to do an update of these rappelling articles to offer other ways of setting up a rappel.

By: Alex Uzueli

Alex Uzueli — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 10:54:19 +0000

I really think its not the best way of building a safe anchor. It forces too munch the bolts and in a wrong direction. I really think it is not a good idea.

The best and safest way I found to build a rappel anchor is in link copied below. It is a copy from an Spanish Magazine called Desnivel.

http://www.abrigopantano.com/publico/rapelemchapeleta.pdf

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:44:39 +0000

We’re definitely not advocating rappelling off cams, nuts, hexes or any kind of protection in an introduction to rappelling article, so that really shouldn’t even be an issue. The underlying point of this article is to show a method of FIXED rappelling that will allow someone the means to gain comfort and trust their rappel. Thanks for the comment!

By: ITS Admin

ITS Admin — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:37:04 +0000

In the first part of the Rappelling series, a modified rope protector was addressed, and will be shown and talked about in the next article.

The reason webbing was used to extend the rappel over the edge was that this series is made to be a an introduction to rappelling, and when someone is just getting a feel for rappelling, we feel it’s better to have the pull (tension) from the rope come before they walk over the side of the rock face. Setting the rappelling rig up like this will slowly acclimate a person to how it feels when you have to totally trust your rope and anchors. When the webbing extends the rappel over the cliff you’re pretty much hanging over it before you get any tension in the line.

In top roping, that’s the only way to go (extending the anchors with webbing). You definitely don’t want your rope coming into contact with the rock in that situation.

Thanks for the comment!

By: FiveOh

FiveOh — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 03:55:52 +0000

One more thing:
“Yes, a triangle pattern puts more force on each bolt and that’s something we’re OK with here, due to the fact that in Rappelling you’re not shock loading your anchor points and only supporting body weight.”

Maybe its okay because you’re using nice solid bolts, but if you were placing your own protection (cams, nuts, etc) this is a really really bad idea.

By: FiveOh

FiveOh — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 03:51:21 +0000

Maybe you’ll address this in the next post, but the way you have it rigged in this post means that the rope will be running directly over the cliff edge, so it would be wise to secure some sort of padding at the edge to keep any sharp rocks from sawing into your line. You could have used some of that handy webbing to extend multiple runners from your anchors over the edge to mitigate this.