Good point about having to pull that bight out in order to ascend – PITA. I used the grigri alone as an ascender all the time — just arm strength, no extra devices needed — and having to pull a bight; 1) defeats the safety tension that was created by that loop, & 2) makes changing directions frequently and making height adjustments (up, down, up, down, up, down…) a lot of extra work with a good risk of getting a hand pinched, I bet.

This thing looks exactly like a grigri with the exception of that loop — I’m guessing that loop may just provide enough extra friction so that you don’t need to tension the free side when you lay back on the rope.

Grigri’s are really tough and easy to use — even for novices (deceptively so, to be honest). I’ve done everything that’s demo’ed here with a grigri (and a bunch more — including ausii and high-speed raps), but when loading the rope, you have to manage the slack end to ensure the system doesn’t uncam…. I don’t know that I’d want to be worried about managing the slack end of the rope if things got really hairy :)

…and I guess, also, if you find yourself suddenly unconscious, you’d want the slack end handled for you.

Grigri is a really great device for rope access. Using grigri for descending is otherwise ok, but requires two hands. The metal loop might help a bit with that. I think Petzl ID doesn’t require two hands. Nor does Petzl Stop or a figure-8 + prusik/shunt setup, but they aren’t useful for ascending. Grigri is useful for ascending, though perhaps not as efficient as a real ascender (in ascender pair).

Grigri might also have heat problems in long fast rappels. I’ve seen some recommendation that you shouldn’t do an over 30 meter rappel with it (in some very short time), though 30 meters is quite a lot. It might harm the rope (or the user) if it gets really hot.

We’ve looked into what you mentioned back when we ran the EXO article and have already planned to do an article on the EXO capabilities vs. off the shelf equipment that can be adapted into an EXO role. We would definitely appreciate any input you have though.

Thanks for the comment!

We’ve noticed this too. We’re looking into whether this is really all there is to the EXO.

Thanks for the comment!

The EXO has been used as a “sturdier, heavier-use device” by Tier 1 Military units for quite awhile now. I think Petzl is just unwilling to market it as such. Look for more from us on the EXO.

Thanks for the question and comment!

Any chance that EXO will also appear as a sturdier, heavier-use device?