In our newest Knot of the Week, we’ll be taking a look at a way to add a leash to the lid from your Liberty Bottle so it doesn’t grow legs and walk away.

One thing that I felt was missing from the US made ITS Liberty Bottles that we sell in our store, was a way to lanyard in the lid so it didn’t get lost. As I started taking Liberty Bottles with me while hiking and climbing, I quickly missed the ability to drink one-handed after removing the lid; which can be done with Nalgenes.

With a couple of easy knots and some Type 1 Paracord or the guts from standard Type III Paracord, you’ll be able to create your own Liberty Bottle Leash in no time!

Liberty Bottle Leash » Loops/Bends

(Strength: 5/Security: 5/Stability: 4/Difficulty: 3)

Please refer to our Knot of the Week introduction post for a description of what these ratings mean.

We’ll be using the Double Fisherman’s Knot and the Bowline for this Liberty Bottle Leash. Both are knots we’ve already gone over in our Knot of the Week series and while we show them being tied in the photos and video below, for a detailed look at each knot’s tying instructions, please refer to the following articles on the Bowline and Double Fisherman’s Knot.

Tying Instructions

• Start with a 24″ section of Type 1 Paracord, or a strand from the guts of Type III Paracord and follow along with the video or photos below.
• For detailed instructions on tying either the Bowline or Double Fisherman’s Knot, please refer to our articles for more info.

The Paracord Deployment Lanyard has been a long time coming on our Knot of the Week and much like our last KOTW on the Paracord Storage Lanyard, this too is a request from a reader.

This lanyard enables you to not only carry paracord ready to use, but can quickly deploy various lengths of it in a way that’s easy to manage. As most know that have worked with stored paracord, it can easily become unwieldy and tangled.

Just as the storage lanyard keeps paracord ready to deploy, the deployment lanyard is a vast improvement that we think you’ll immediately integrate.

Paracord Deployment Lanyard » Misc.

(Strength: 2/Secure: 3/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 2)

This method for storing paracord can be used in nearly any length of Paracord, but for this demonstration we’ll be using 25 feet.

Uses:

• Keeping paracord handy and ready to use at a moment’s notice
• Decorative way to store paracord
• Storing paracord in a “fob” design that can be quickly deployed

Tying Instructions:

1. Start by creating a bight in one end of the paracord, using a closed fist as a height guide.
2. *Ensure that the amount of bight exposed above your closed fist is the size that you’d like your “loop” to be.
3. Take the working end of this bight and melt it to the standing part of the paracord.
4. *You may need to heat up the standing part of the paracord as well to get it to bind.*
5. After the bight is secured and a loop has been made, start either wrapping the paracord around your hand like the pictures below, or in loops like in the video.
6. *Leave yourself a length of around six feet at the end to start making the overwrapping for the deployment lanyard.*
7. Starting near the top of the wrapped paracord, wrap a lock into the paracord (see video) and continue to tightly wrap downward.
8. At the end of the wrapping, simply tuck the working end into itself and melt it down for added security.
9. The loop can now be used to hook onto a keychain or carabiner for fast deployment of your paracord.

Video and Photos

A special thanks to Thunder Chicken for suggesting this Knot of the Week!

This knot of the week started off as a request from a reader who wanted to know how to create a lanyard he saw at the end of a knife sheath.

On analyzing the knot, typically tied to shorten up loose ends, we’ve come up with a few more uses for it and another way to tie it.

When tied in this manner it creates a way to keep a few feet of paracord ready to deploy quickly. While not a quick-release per se, there’s just one knot to untie at the end to unwrap it.

Paracord Storage Lanyard » Misc.

(Strength: 2/Secure: 2/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 2)

As mentioned you typically see this kind of wrapping hanging down from longer fixed-blade knife sheaths, as it allows you to store a length of cordage to untie and tie around your leg to further secure the sheath from flapping around.

Another useful method for tying this knot is to follow the instructions below, but use more paracord and double up the wrapping to make a fatter lanyard.

Uses:

• Keeping paracord handy and ready to use
• Decorative way to store paracord
• Shorten loose ends of a lanyard

Tying Instructions:

1. Start by finding the mid-point of your paracord, for this we used a four foot section.
2. Create a bight in the midpoint and gather it your hand.
3. Using your hand as a guide, create another bight in the working ends.
4. Bring working end up to the original bight and wrap a lock just under the original bight loop (see photo)
5. Continue to tightly wrap the working ends around until you reach the lower double bight.
6. Thread the working ends through the double bight to secure the wrapping.
7. Grab the loop that’s now created and push/twist the wrapping down toward the point you secured it.
8. This will not only tighten up the wrapping and further secure it, but create a larger loop on the top.
9. This larger loop can now be used to girth hitch the Paracord Storage Lanyard onto an object or hook it on a keychain or carabiner.

Video and Photos

A special thanks to Foreman for suggesting this Knot of the Week!

On today’s Knot of the Week, we’re going to go over instructions for creating your own Bola or Boleadora from natural fiber rope and a few golf balls for weighted cores. While we’ve gone over the Monkey’s Fist Knot in a previous KOTW, we’ve never show in quite like this.

Bolas throwing weapons were primarily used by South American Gauchos to capture/hobble running cattle or game, by utilizing an over-the-head swinging motion and releasing it on target. While I’m sure our readers could come up with a multitude of uses for these, one could come in handy in case of Zombies!

DIY Boleadora

What we’ve created is a version that features two heavier weighted balls and one lightweight ball on a slightly longer cord. This follows tradition, as when throwing the Boleadora, you simply grasp the lightweight end and swing it over your head.

Upon releasing, the heavier ends allow the weapon to fly as the lightweight end wraps upon impact. Ideally you want to hit your target with the middle of the Boleadora so that both the heavier ends and the lightweight end end up wrapping.

While the traditional Boleadora utilizes stones or much heavier objects, we’re going to stick with golf balls for the heavier ends and a plastic practice golf ball for the lightweight end.

(Strength: 4/Secure: 4/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 5) – Taken from Monkey’s Fist Knot

Uses:

• Hobbling/Capturing an Animal
• Heaving Line
• Tripping up a Zombie

Tying Instructions:

• To start you’ll need two regular golf balls, a practice golf ball and 32 feet of natural fiber rope, like Sisal. (Optionally you’ll need waxed dental floss for whipping)
• Cut the rope into one 20 ft. piece and one 12 ft. piece.
• Form a bight in the 20 ft. rope and mark off 1 1/2 ft. on each side of the bight, this will be your starting point for each Monkey’s Fist.
• Rather than restate the steps to form these two Monkey’s Fist’s, please refer to this article and the video embedded below.
• After forming these two Monkey’s Fist’s using the regular golf balls as weighted cores, move over to the 12 ft. section of rope.
• Mark off 2 to 2 1/2 ft. from the end of the rope, this is where you’ll start the third Monkey’s Fist.
• Use the lightweight practice golf ball for the weighted core in this section of rope.
• What you should have now is one section of rope with two Monkey’s Fists and a single section of rope with a single Monkey’s Fist.
• Using a Beckett’s Bend (Sheet Bend), join the two sections of rope together.
• Optionally at this point you can whip the joined sections with dental floss for a more permanent attachment.
• Enjoy your Boleadora throwing! Please refer to our photos and video below for further instructions.

Photos and Video

Check out all our detailed DIY Boleadora photos on Flickr!

After a winter slumber the Knot of the Week is back in full force! Today with the help of contributing author Justin Spindler, we’re going to take you though the steps to create your own Coiled Paracord Lanyard.

You may have seen these before from places like TAD and wished you would have gotten in on one while you could have. Now you can learn how to build your own out of a few simple materials.

Coiled Paracord Lanyard » Misc.

The Coiled Paracord Lanyard is simply a plastic expandable coil key chain with a 550 paracord sheath. They can be used to secure lights, small knives and wallets; because of their expandable capabilities they allow you to use your items without detaching them from the lanyard or having an excess amount of cord hanging from a pocket.

You might ask why go through the trouble of sheathing the coil in 550? It certainly looks much cooler than a pink plastic key coil and does add some strength to the coil itself.

(Strength: n/a/Secure: n/a/Stability: n/a/Difficulty: 3)

Materials and Tools needed

• Expandable key coil (you’ll need the type with metal crimps at each end)
• Paracord
• Two small split rings (two larger split rings come with most key coils)
• Heat shrink tubing  (3/16″ is a perfect size for this project)
• McGizmo steel clips or any other small clips
• Scissors
• Heat gun or hairdryer
• Lighter
• Any type of pliers, I used a Multitool

Instructions

1. Take the key coil and remove any split rings or clips that may be attached to it.
2. With the pliers bend the flat portion of one the metal crimps (one end only) so that the paracord will easily slide over it.
3. Stretch the coil out to get an idea of it’s length when expanded.
4. Cut a length of paracord approximately 12-18 inches longer than the expanded coil
5. Remove all but one strand from the paracord’s inner core.
6. Tie one end of the remaining strand to something stable like a chair, desk or table.
7. Tie the other end to the bent metal crimp on the key coil.
8. Now stretch the coil out and affix the other end to something stable as well. I recommend something like a heavy chair as you can slide it back further if you find that you need to stretch the coil longer.
9. *With the coil expanded you should now be able to work the 550 cord sheath over the the key coil without too much trouble*
10. Once you have worked the paracord sheath completely over the key coil relieve the tension on it.
11. *This process tends to deform the coil a little, so the faster you can relieve the tension on the coil the better*
12. Trim any frayed ends on the paracord sheath and melt them down with a lighter, just be careful not to melt the plastic key coil.
13. To finish off the ends, slide the heat shrink tubing over the metal crimps and the ends of the paracord
14. Heat with a hairdryer or heat gun until they shrink up tightly.
15. Attach your split rings and metal clips and you’re done!

If the coil has been deformed or expanded too much you can try recoiling it around a pencil and taping it in place for a few hours to let it reform. I’ve only made two of these so if anyone else has a better method or suggestions please feel free to throw up a comment!

Editor-in-Chief’s Note: A big thank you to Justin for providing the instructions and photos for this Knot of the Week, I’ve added a YouTube video below going through the process as well. Justin and I both came to the same conclusions separately for how to best create the Paracord Coil Lanyard, but as he mentioned be sure to add your thoughts and suggestions for making it better!

Video and Photos

This week’s Knot of the Week features two different ways to tie a hasty webbing harness that can be used as a backup rappelling harness in case of an emergency.

Tied with 1″ Mil-Spec Tubular Webbing, these featured harnesses have a rating of 19 kN or 4,200 lbs. Tubular Webbing is commonly used in climbing and readily available in either Mil-Spec or Climb-Spec. You’ll find that these are very similar and maintain roughly the same 19 kN rating.

If you’re looking to source 1″ Tubular Webbing, here’s a great resource that aggregates pricing and availability from popular online retailers like REI, Amazon, Summit Hut and many more.

Method #1

The first way that we’ll show to tie a Hasty Rappelling Harness is very similar to the Swiss Seat, but as the name implies, hasty. There are ways of reinforcing this harness with tape knots, which we point out in the video below.

This first harness example is tied with 18 ft. of Tubular Webbing and is easily stored in a cargo pocket. One of the main benefits of this harness is that storing the webbing coiled and flat minimizes space and takes up much less room than 18 ft. of rope. Tubular Webbing is also more comfortable to use as a harness, but the purpose of backup harnesses like these is for emergencies, and comfort really shouldn’t be a concern in those situations.

Method #2

The second method we’ll show to tie a Hasty Rappelling Harness is something we’ve come up with recently. It utilizes 12 ft. of pre-knotted Tubular Webbing (a Tape Knot that’s been backed up) to make a runner of sorts that can be easily donned in a hurry. This method is much faster than the first example and uses less webbing.

It’s not as secure as the first harness, but if seconds count, it will get you down. It’s also more compact and easier to store than the first, and as you’ll see in the video, it fits very nicely into the flashlight cave of a TAD Gear Fast Pack in conjunction with their Cable Retractor.

What really makes this method shine is its ability to augment a Rigger’s Belt. As you can see from the picture to the right  it would be very easy to clip this into the loop. When used in combination with the Rigger’s belt you’ve truly got a bombproof backup system. No leg support has been a common complaint with a Rigger’s Belt, but when used in combination with this method, it will be sure to satisfy.

Notes

Both of these harnesses utilize Rigger’s Rubber Bands to hold them together for quick deployment when needed. Here’s a link to an article we wrote on Rigger’s Rubber Bands, they’re definitely the right choice for this application.

Always use a locking carabiner when tying these harnesses and remember to “Screw Down, so you don’t Screw Up.” That’s something helpful to memorize so that you’re always screwing the locking gate on a carabiner “down.” If gravity comes into play it will rotate the carabiner closed, not open.

Hasty Webbing Harness #1 » Misc.

(Strength: 2/Secure: 3/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 3)

Hasty Webbing Harness #2 » Misc.

(Strength: 2/Secure: 3/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 2)

Uses:

• Hasty emergency rappelling harness for you or a victim
• Transporting an injured victim to safety

Tying Instructions:

• Please refer to the YouTube video below for instructions

Rappelling is inherently dangerous. This information is provided for educational purposes only, and should not replace training from an experienced guide.

We return to our regularly scheduled Knot of the Week today with the Swiss Seat. The Swiss Seat is also often referred to as a rappel seat, as it’s purpose is to serve as an emergency rappelling harness.

Many survival and E&E kits contain a carabiner and a 12 ft. section of rope just for this purpose. Not to sound overly dramatic, but in an emergency, just these two items could mean the difference between life and death.

A Swiss Seat can also be used to transport an injured victim to safety if no rappelling harness is available to them.

We highly recommend that before carrying a 12 ft. section of rope for a Swiss Seat, you see if it’s the right amount of rope for you.

In the YouTube video below, the waist size shown is a 32″ and the rope is just the right length. Your mileage may vary.

Swiss Seat » Misc.

(Strength: 3/Secure: 3/Stability: 4/Difficulty: 4)

Please refer to our Knot of the Week introduction post for a description of what these ratings mean.

Uses:

• Emergency Rappelling Harness
• Transporting an Injured Victim to Safety

Instructions:

Make sure you have enough rope left over to properly back up the square knot tied in the Swiss Seat.

1. Find the center of the rope
2. Hold the bight of the center against your left hip if right handed or right hip if left handed
3. *The reason for this is that when tying the final square knot, you want it opposite from your rappelling brake hand*
4. Drop the bight and wrap the rope around your waist
5. If wrapped correctly you should now have one end that is longer than the other
6. Make one overhand knot and a consecutive second wrap (it doesn’t matter which side)
7. Allow the running ends to hang down
8. Pull the running ends through your legs and around your backside, squatting to tighten
9. Feed each side up and behind the waist wrap creating a half hitch to lock
10. Tie a square knot off to the side of your body you originally started on
11. Backup the square knot with an overhand knot in each working end
12. If you have excess rope, consider carrying less or simply tucking it into a pocket
13. Attach a locking carabiner through the initial wrapped portion of the Swiss Seat as well as the wrap with the square knot
14. Ensure the gate is facing you to avoid it rubbing on the rope, and “screw down so you don’t screw up!”

View the gallery or YouTube video below and follow along with the steps above!

Next up on our Knot of the Week climbing mini-series is learning how to coil a rope for storage or carry. This method is very quick, convenient and will prolong the life of your rope over other storage methods.

While we use the term coiling, the real definition of this method is called flaking. Flaking allows the rope to be gathered in the natural way it lies and doesn’t add any unnecessary twists to the rope. Twists can kink over time reducing the life of the rope fibers, as well as lead to knotting when undoing the rope.

Carrying a rope in this configuration will allow a climber to move with the least amount of weight possible to reach their destination. A place where a few of us go top-roping requires a steep free-climb to get the rope set up.

Carrying the rope like this helps maintain a good center of gravity. Trying to free-climb with a backpack full of rope adds unnecessary risk to an already dangerous task.

Rope Coil » Misc.

(Strength: 2/Security: 2/Stability: 2/Difficulty: 2)

Please refer to our Knot of the Week introduction post for a description of what these ratings mean.

Make sure to leave at least six feet of rope on the working end to make the turns and have enough to tie around your body.

Uses:

• Carrying a rope while climbing
• Storing a rope naturally

Instructions:

1. Find the center of the rope
2. Lay the bight of the center across your left hand hanging down
3. Flake the rope forwards and backwards trying to reach the same low point each time
4. When you get to the last six feet or so, wrap a few turns around the upper part of the flakes
5. Pull the working end through the loop you’ve made with the flakes
6. *At this point you can tie off the working end for storage or continue for carry*
7. Separate the working ends across the base of your neck
8. Pull the working ends to the small of your back and cross them
9. Bring the working ends to your waist and tie off with a square knot
10. Go climb!

View the gallery below and follow along with the steps above!

Check back next week as we continue our Knot of the Week mini-series with the Prusik Knot!