If you look in any gun magazine, you’ll find a lot of pictures with people holding and shooting pistols, shotguns and rifles with two hands. Because they are stills, we obviously can’t see people moving.

For most people reading this, we can break our need for firearms down into two areas, home defense and the street. The focus of this article is going to be home defense and the need to move and operate from within using long guns, by “making them short.”

Trinity

The trinity of defensive gun work is mindset – marksmanship – weapons handling. Working with weapons handling is too often pigeon holed into things like reloads and malfunction drills, yet how many reading this have ever had to do either of those skills in their house vs. moving around your house with a gun. The best way to practice weapons handling for defending your home is by practicing it with a clear/safe firearm in variable light conditions.

It only makes sense that much of the movement on the range involves pulling the trigger. This is just not the case in home defense when dealing with stairwells, corners and rooms. You need to be able to move with the gun, while keeping yourself in a position to put that first round on a threat in the area that you are covering with the muzzle. At the same time, you need to exploit cover and concealment. The cover is often hard to find in residential construction.

Couple this with navigation and feeling for light switches while opening/closing doors. This illustrates that you need to become comfortable working with a firearm in confined spaces. We’ll concentrate on the long gun, since by physical size it’s troublesome for people to deal with and not bang into stuff.

Making it Short

The first thing we do is “make the gun short.” This is accomplished by holding the pistol grip or “hand” portion of the stock and letting the butt of the stock run along the inside of your forearm.

This provides you with the ability to use default targeting on the threat area you are covering; by naturally indexing the weapon in that direction. After practicing it with both hands, you’ll quickly find that it’s comfortable and allows you to make the most of your concealment and navigate confined spaces.

One of the best benefits in “making the gun small” is going up and down steps. It allows you to brace yourself and control your ascent/decent without giving away a sound signature, which is the problem when using two hands and your back instead.

Next, we need to understand the reaction shot. The reaction shot is the first shot you fire in reaction to identifying a threat. The first shot is also the most important one; at these short distances in confined spaces, you won’t have any problem making it count with a one-handed shot. Your arm will acts as a shock absorber. After firing the first one handed shot, your location is obviously compromised and you need to get both hands on the gun and handle the job.

I typically use a Mossberg 590 with a side saddle and Surefire fore end. I chose to mention my setup for two reasons. The first is that it’s at the high end of what weight and length weapon you’ll most likely use. The second is that this is the shotgun I used both on patrol and for SWAT. Many SWAT entries were conducted in small hotel rooms and crack houses. This is where I became comfortable with working with the shotgun in confined spaces, especially clearing things like bathrooms and closets.

Learn to “make it small” first at home and then do some live fire on the range. My hope is that you find this useful in your home defense planning.

British Super Sniper Craig Harrison has uprooted the Canadians for the longest sniper shot on record, 1.54 miles!

Not only did he beat the record by 150 ft., but took two shots that each killed a Taliban machine gunner. At 8,120 ft., which is 3,200 ft. further than the range of his Accuracy International L115A3, conditions had to be perfect. The .338 Lapua round again proves it’s worth in the battlefield.

The shots were taken in November of last year, when Harrison’s Household Calvary unit came under fire in Helmand, but the details surrounding the shots have only just been released. This article from dailymail.co.uk has some interesting details, and some good first hand information of the November events from Harrison.

Thanks to Mike P. for the tip via Twitter on Sunday!

During the last class that ITS Tactical hosted, most of us had the opportunity to run this Cold Qual with Doc prior to performing any drills. Due to inclement weather, a few students were unable to start with the Cold Qual and Doc sent it over to share with all our readers.

This is what RSKTKR Consulting uses as a diagnostic tool. It’s based on two of the most important techniques you will ever use with a firearm, drawing and firing for speed, and performing an Emergency Reload.

RSKTKR has developed not only a PDF printout of the target and appropriate distances to use it at (depending on the size you print it out at), but they’ve also put together a PDF to keep a record of your Cold Quals (see the downloads at the end of the article).

Requirements

You’ll need a Pact timer (Doc likes the CED brand but we’ve also had good luck with the PocketPro II), the printable target and 12 rounds of ammo. You should do this “Cold,” in other words, no warm-ups or firearms manipulations before hand. No gaming it, if you screw up you screw up.

The qual is completed in two stages, do both twice and you will fire a total of 12 rounds.

Stage One – 2.5 each time = 5 seconds

From Concealed or Duty carry, in an “Interview”or relaxed stance, draw and fire two rounds. Repeat.

Stage Two - 6.0 each time = 12 seconds

Set yourself up for an Emergency reload with one round in the chamber & one in the Magazine. Draw and fire two rounds, perform an emergency reload with a full magazine and fire two more. Repeat.

Scoring - Total time 17 seconds or less is good. Misses add 5 seconds.

All hits inside the Thoracic Triangle count, but are for your personal scoring only. Realize that shots inside the triangle are much more likely to cause a positive “Stop”to the threat. All hits disrupt the OODA loop of your opponent, therefore all hits count.

Recording

Keep a record of this (you can use the Personal Cold Qual Form below) every time you go to the range, before anything else, as this is how it will go down on the street. Keep an eye on your GPA so to speak. There’s no beginner, expert, or other levels etc., this is for benchmarking only, you will have good days and bad days. Be consistent and practice and you will see your average drop.

Again, do not shoot this 10X in a row, this is not a drill, this is a benchmark test and should only be done “Cold”. Don’t forget your “Rituals”, “Threat scan 360″ and communicate. After shooting this course of fire follow up with dedicated drills to improve your over-all skill-sets.

Downloads

• Cold Qual Target – Download here (for 8.5″ x 11″ set at 3 yards, for 11″ x 17″ set at 5 yards
• Personal Cold Qual Form – Download here

Notes

There are other timers available out there, especially some free and paid ones for the iPhone and iPod Touch. Look for an article coming soon on the benefits and detriments of these.

What drills do all of you use to warm up? Is this Cold Qual something you’ll try incorporating?

The purpose of this article is to assist you in developing the skills necessary for effectively employing a semi-automatic pistol during a shooting confrontation in other than daylight conditions.

As a L.E.O. / Military / Security Professional, you will work in various low-light conditions. Therefore, you must be prepared to properly perform in other than ideal conditions.

In order to successfully shoot a threat in Reduced Light the Shooter should be able to demonstrate and/or identify:

• Proper range discipline with weapon
• Identifying sources of available light
• Methods that will assist is visually adapting to reduced light environment
• Proper techniques of threat identification to be used in a reduced light environment
• Proper marksmanship techniques while using a flashlight and your semi-automatic pistol

Two types of Light

Ambient Light: Moon light, Street lights, light from traffic, alley lights, runway lights, emergency lights, parking lot lights, Light you do not control, etc.  

Alternative light source: Light Switches, your own Flashlight, Light you have control over.

Low Light Hints

BE PREPARED: Always Bring your light and whenever possible become familiar with your environment.

VISION: The human eye requires as much as 30-45 minutes to adjust to darkness, therefore you can plan ahead!

• Avoid looking unnecessarily at light sources.
• Light sources can be detrimental to the Shooter by silhouetting their position, avoid backlighting yourself with any other source.
• A decrease in the rate of dark adaptation and the degree of night vision capacity will occur with prolonged, repeated exposure to bright sunlight (Parsons 14)
• Remove sunglasses prior to entering dark area or when entering an enclosed darkened structure or vessel from  the normal lighting conditions
• Receive annual eye exams
• DO NOT WEAR permanent tint or lenses that gradually change color density when out of bright light during the performance of your duties *TIP: Instead wear clip-on sunglasses over the prescription glasses.
• Smoking will impair an individual’s degree of night vision capacity!!!

“If the officer smokes, he/she loses 20% of their night vision capability at sea level.  This equals a physiological altitude of 5,000 feet” (Parsons 13).

• As light level decreases, color perception also decreases.  Light and Dark colors at night can be distinguished only by the intensity of reflected light (Human eye will identify shades of gray).
• Perception of fine detail is impossible at night
• ID of objects at night is based on perceiving general contours and outlines, not on small distinguishing features (Parsons 13)
• Depth Perception is impaired
• Thus, a person’s ability to ID subjects and objects (weapons/threats) is impaired.
• TARGET INDENTIFICATION BECOMES CRITICAL!!!
• In a low-light situation, do not stare at objects, scan with your eyes…employing your peripheral vision and look “around” objects” instead of staring directly at them.  This will reduce the affects of the “Night time Blind Spot”.
• Figure 8 Method. By scanning in a horizontal figure 8 you increase your ability to identify threats and pick up on movement.

These are the basics for the classroom portion of the lowlight course; I suggest finding a competent instructor in your area to teach you the proper shooting techniques in a safe manner.

“Doc” Up!

Battery Assist Device or Extended Bolt Release

In March of 2008 I attended a “Mindset Handgun” class taught by Travis Haley just before he dissolved his previous company, Simply Dynamic, Inc. (or SDI), and took up with the training arm of Magpul Industries, Magpul Dynamics.

Several times during that class Travis and I discussed carbines and all things related to same. One of the items he showed me was his BAD Lever. BAD stands for Battery Assist Device, and consists of an L-shaped piece of aluminum with lightening slots cut into it.

The BAD bolts on to the bolt catch and extends down the side of the lower receiver before turning 90 degrees through the trigger guard and protruding from the ejection port side. This allows the shooter to operate the bolt catch with the trigger finger of the right hand, both for releasing the bolt into battery and for locking the bolt back and out of battery.

When combined with a Redi-Mag (especially the no-longer-available Gen I that releases both magazines with the press of the stock magazine release button) the BAD becomes a very effective device for speeding up ones out-of-batter (or bolt-hold-open) reloads. However, what Travis stressed to me over and over again was that this increase in speed, while desirable, was secondary to the true benefit of the BAD, which is clearing doublefeeds in the AR.

Clearance of a doublefeed requires one to lock the bolt to the rear, strip the magazine and discard (since doublefeeds are usual magazine induced), running the bolt three times, locking the bolt to the rear again, “visually and digitally inspect” the chamber, insert a fresh magazine, and release the bolt. Anyone familiar with the AR platform and doublefeed clearance realizes that this requires quite the hand dance to accomplish.

Whether you use your right hand to reach under the trigger guard and push the bottom of the bolt catch while operating the charging handle with the left hand (my preferred method, for what it’s worth), or using the thumb of the left hand to press the bolt catch while pulling on the charging handle with the right hand, the hands are in constant motion and the process takes a considerable amount of time.

If, however, you give the shooter the ability to lock the bolt to the rear without ever removing their right hand from the pistol grip you have greatly reduced the amount of time required to clear this type of malfunction.

To say that I did not understand the stir this lever would cause on the various interweb forums is an understatement. Travis initially asked me not to publish any photographs of the lever but when I saw other recipients beginning to post pictures of theirs it appeared that the secret was out. Since posting a few pictures of the lever on my website at www.tacticalyellowvisor.net I have gotten more emails than I can count from people looking for the lever (please stop. I don’t know where you can get a BAD, and no you can’t have mine!). Unfortunately most think that it is going to cure all that ails their emergency reloads, and the malfunction clearance benefit is lost on them.

Since Travis has now taken up with Magpul, the obvious assumption is that Magpul will be producing the lever. This is both good and bad. Good in that it means that they will not release a product that is not 100%, bad in that it means who knows when they will get around to releasing them. In this day and age it should come as no surprise to anyone that other companies moved in where Magpul left off and filled the void.

I had mixed feelings about purchasing one of these levers due to concerns about rewarding those that didn’t development their own idea, by buying their products. Since Travis and Magpul appear to have no interest in taking any action against these manufacturers I decided to pick up one of each of the two most popular copies and test them out for myself and compare them to what I consider the “original.”

I keep hearing that these types of levers have been around for years, yet for some reason nobody can show me one, so to me the Magpul/SDI BAD will remain the “original” in my mind. On a side note, if you think that levers like this one available from Brownells are the same thing, you’ve missed the point entirely.

There are two prominent companies making and selling their own versions of this lever. The first is Tango 5 Tactical, which has told me they are 2-3 weeks away from catching up on production and to check back at that time. He has been selling them through various Internet forums like AR15.com for $42/ea. This version appears to have a thinner armature and attaches to the stock bolt catch by clamping down on it with two screws.

The other is Phase 5 Tactical, which makes two versions of the lever. The first, the EBRv1, is made from aluminum and bolts on to the stock bolt catch by clamping down with three screws and is the subject of this article. The second, the EBRv2, is made of steel and comes with a bolt catch to which it is welded.  The EBRv1 sells for $46 while the EBRv2 sells for $56. Both prices include shipping.

EBRv1 vs. BAD

Overall

On the left is the Phase 5 Tactical Extended Bolt Release and on the right is what I’m going to call the SDI BAD. Several differences immediately jump out, and will be discussed later in more detail, but the most evident difference between the two is the lightening treatment. The EBR has scallops along one edge that frankly appear to be there for nothing more than decoration, while the BAD has actual cuts made into the lever. We’ll discuss why this is important later on.

Profile

In profile you can see that the BAD makes a 90 degree turn while the EBR instead angles slightly through the trigger guard. I have not found any benefit or detriment to either approach so far, but I was skeptical at first that the angle of the EBR would put it too low in the trigger guard. More on this when we get to pictures of both levers installed.

Weight

As you can see from the above photo, the EBR weighs in at 0.7 oz. while the BAD weighs in at 0.3 oz. That means the EBR weighs twice what the BAD does. While this is clearly not going to be a load and fatigue issue on the shooter, when you figure that the magazine spring has to push up on the follower, which in turn has to push up on the bolt catch, which now has an eccentric load on it that it wasn’t designed to handle, you can see where light weight is critical in this application.  Too much weight on the bolt catch could slow the catch down just enough that it may not raise up in time to catch the carrier as is moves back and forth in the upper.

Mounting "Front"

Mounting "Back"

EBR Disassembled

BAD Disassembled

The EBR and the BAD mount in completely different ways. The EBR relies on three phillips-head screws, while the BAD relies on a single allen-head bolt. The EBR relies entirely on the clamping force of these three screws on the steel back plate while the BAD uses the notch cut out in the aluminum back plate, and the lever itself to surround the paddle of the bolt catch. It is specifically designed so that it does not clamp down and instead is a looser fit on the paddle than the EBR. This looseness means that BAD wobbles considerably more than the EBR, but it also may aid in allowing the stock bolt catch to move more freely to catch the carrier.

Installation

I encountered a few issues when attempting to install the EBR. I already had the BAD and had it installed on a rifle which also wore the Blue Force Gear Redi-Mod version of the Redi-mag mentioned above. I had to remove the BAD for the photographs above, and I wanted to take pictures of the EBR mounted the same way that I mount my BAD. The problem, as outlined in the pictures below, is that the EBRv1 is not compatible with the Redi-Mag.

As described above, one of the advantages to these types of levers is the added emergency reload speed, which is also increased by using a Redi-Mag. However one of the un-mentioned advantages is that without one of these levers the addition of a Redi-Mag makes accessing the stock paddle difficult. By making their EBRv1 non-compatible with this device they have removes 1/3 of the usefulness of the lever. In fairness, the welded-on EBRv2 would appear to have no trouble clearing the Redi-Mag.

BAD backing plate as it interfaces with the bolt catch paddle

EBR backing plate as it interfaces with the bolt catch paddle

Note that the EBR will not slide into place over the paddle with the Redi-Mag installed

Same condition from the opposite side showing how much of the paddle is exposed

Lever held in place at the correct elevation yet hitting the Redi-Mag such that the screw holes are partially obscured by the paddle

The solution to all of the above was to drag out another lower that does not have wear a Redi-Mag so that the EBR could be installed and the comparison could continue. Please note that both lowers are registered Short Barreled Rifles (SBRs) so there are no legal issues with the same 11.5″ barreled upper being on both lowers.

Another issue with the EBR is that due to not having the cut-out rear like the BAD installation, elevation is entirely subjective. While it may seem nice to
have the flexibility, there is a potential for the lever to bind if installed too high on the paddle as shown on the left.

Furthermore, the soft metal of both the backing plate and the screws leaves something to be desired. The stripped screws and bent plate were not
the result of any lever but instead came from using a “stubby” phillips-head screwdriver with a blade that fit the slots perfectly.

From this angle you can see that the screws on the EBR extend past the backing plate, in part because the plate bent. This does not appear to
negatively impact the function of the device.

The outside face of both levers once installed. Note the Redi-Mag is installed with the BAD which is not possible with the EBRv1.

Range of Motion

The stock bolt catch will wobble back and forth slightly in it’s groove if pushed. Most people will never realize this since the catch is a very short lever and therefore the perceived wobble is very small. Attach a longer lever, however, and the wobble becomes more pronounced at the tip and therefore more evident.

When I first installed the BAD last year the first thing I noticed was that it moved fore and aft quite a bit. Subsequently I think this may be intentional in the design as it gives the stock paddle a little more room to move to do its job of holding the bolt open on an empty magazine.  Let’s take a look at the two levers and the relative amount of movement.

EBR - Note the very limited range of motion fore and aft

BAD - Note the broader range of motion, especially towards the front of the gun (left, in the picture)

Projection

The other question is one of projection. The Catch-22 is that if the lever extends too far out on the ejection port side of the gun then it’s more prone to catching on things, but if it doesn’t extend out far enough then it can’t work as it is supposed to. Both levers appear to be about equal in this regard.

EBR on left, BAD on right. The downward angle of the EBR can be seen here. Shows how the EBR can bind if installed too high on the paddle.

EBR on left, BAD on right. Relative amount of projection of both levers can be seen looking down from the top.

Installed

Finally, pictures of the levers installed on a complete firearm.

EBR installed on Colt 6933 with Magpul MOE furniture, Aimpoint T-1 in Larue Tactical mount, Larue Tactical rear BUIS and Surefire X300 attached to the FSB via a Midwest Industries mount.

BAD installed on another 6933 lower wearing Magpul CTR stock and MIAD grip as well as Blue Force Gear Redi-Mod version of the Redi-Mag. Upper and parts remain from picture above.

Design

Upon initial review of the two levers, I found aspects of both designs that I liked.

Mounting

The steel backing plate of the EBR seems like a desirable feature given that no matter how many screws are used to hold it on, it still requires screws. Having a harder material than aluminum seems like a good idea when threading a steel screw into it. However, that steel either needs to be hard enough to resist bending, or needs to have a cutout like the BAD so that it bottoms out and stops at a certain point.

Therefore, based on initial impressions, what I’d really like to see is the design of the BAD, with a slightly thinner backing plate made of steel so that it can clamp more securely onto the paddle of the stock bolt catch.

Weight

The BAD weighs half as much as the EBR. Even if it had a steel backing plate it would still be considerably lighter. This just seems like a good idea to me.

In fact such a good idea that I’d like to cut slots into the EBR. The problem is that the otherwise function-less scallop cuts down the one side makes this a difficult proposition. I am, however, so committed to lightening the weight of the lever that I am going to be drilling lightening holes in it along it’s length in-between the scallops.

Projection

While both levers project out from the triggerguard far enough, the slightly longer projection of the BAD just seems to be easier to hit. It also is easier to raise up on for locking the bolt to the rear for admin functions or for malfunction clearance.

The BAD has a subtle notch cut into the bottom of the projection that also makes for a nice index point for the trigger finger when locking the bolt to the rear.

Design Conclusion

What it really comes down to is that the BAD comes across as the better designed piece. While I’d like to see a steel backing plate, I can’t argue with success and the BAD definitely is working well for those of us that were lucky enough to get our hands on one.

Implementation

Technique

The use of one of these levers affects the manual of arms of the gun it’s mounted on. Period. That is a fact. It changes the way that you release the bolt after an emergency reload and it changes the way that you lock the bolt to the rear to clear a malfunction.

The good news is that if you revert to the old way of operating the gun, having one of these levers installed will not affect your ability to accomplish these tasks.

Typically when the shooter performs and emergency reload the following sequence occurs (when shooting right-handed):

1. Fire the rifle until empty
2. Bolt locks to the rear
3. Eject empty magazine with trigger finger
4. Break grip with left hand
5. Retrieve fresh magazine with left hand
6. Insert fresh magazine (push/pull)
7. Use left hand to press bolt release (either with heel of hand or with thumb)
8. Return left hand to firing position
9. Resume firing

The technique when one of these levers is utilized is slightly different:

1. Fire the rifle until empty
2. Bolt locks to the rear
3. Eject empty magazine with trigger finger
4. Break grip with left hand
5. Retrieve fresh magazine with left hand
6. Insert fresh magazine (push/pull)
7. Return left hand to firing position WHILE pressing bolt release with trigger finger
8. Resume firing

One less step, yes, but it’s a pretty important step.  If you use a Redi-Mag or Redi-Mod, step 7 in the first example can be pretty difficult. The Redi-Mag makes the bolt catch harder to access and eliminates using the heel of the hand from the list of possible options.

The real value, however, is in clearing a double-feed. One traditional method of which is (again when shooting right-handed):

1. Establish the type of malfunction
2. Break grip with left hand
3. Grab front of magwell with left hand and put left thumb on bolt catch
4. Break grip with right hand
5. Pull charging handle to the rear with right hand until the bolt locks back
6. Return right hand to grip
7. Push magazine eject with right trigger finger while stripping magazine with left hand
8. Break grip with right hand
9. Run the charging handle three times with right hand
10. Lock bolt to rear with left hand on third time
11. Visually and digitally inspect the chamber (use right hand to clear out any remaining obstructions)
12. Return right hand to firing grip
13. Retrieve fresh magazine with left hand
14. Insert fresh magazine (push/pull)
15. Use left hand to press bolt release (either with heel of hand or with thumb)
16. Return left hand to firing position
17. Resume firing

The techniques when one of these levers is utilized is dramatically different:

1. Establish the type of malfunction
2. Break grip with left hand
3. Pull charging handle to the rear with left hand while pressing up with the right trigger finger until the bolt locks back
4. Push magazine eject with right trigger finger while stripping magazine with left hand
5. Run the charging handle three times with left hand
6. Lock bolt to rear with left hand on third time pressing up with the right trigger finger
7. Visually and digitally inspect the chamber (use left hand to clear out any remaining obstructions)
8. Retrieve fresh magazine with left hand
9. Insert fresh magazine (push/pull)
10. Return left hand to firing position WHILE pressing bolt release with trigger finger
11. Resume firing

Note that at no time does your right hand leave the firing grip. Additionally, you are using your left hand to run the charging handle every single time, just like you would for any other manipulations of the gun. You’re also using your right trigger finger to manipulate the bolt catch just like you would for any other manipulations of the gun.

Consistency is a good thing as it leads to increased speed. A double-feed at the wrong time, whether on the game clock or the life clock, can be a catastrophic event. Having a way to clear it that is not only faster but also more consistent with your other manipulations is a good thing.

The obvious problem, the consistency, goes both ways. Not having one of these levers on every gun that you run regularly could lead to issues.

Similarly if chances are good that you may wind up shooting someone else’s gun (whether a loaner, a pickup, or whatever) then being used to operating with one of these levers could pose a problem when you switch back.

Even in learning how to use the lever there may be a steep learning curve involved (see more on this under “Actual Use” below).

Actual Use

As mentioned, I actually received the BAD in early 2008. However, since I was working strictly with the AK that year I really didn’t get a chance to try the lever out until I moved back to the AR for 2009.

The first chance I had to run it was at our February South Florida Defensive Carbine match, and I specifically designed stages that I knew would give me the opportunity to try it out. Prior to the match I had performed hundreds of the reloads with the new lever at home in dryfire practice.

This video shows my first ever attempt at running the BAD during live-fire. Note the emergency reload at +/- the 12 second mark, and the growl of frustration that accompanied it.  The issue I encountered had more to do with the Redi-Mag than it did with the lever, but you can see where adjusting one’s TTPs can take a lot of practice to settle into.

By Stage Three I had settled into the manipulations a bit better and had less trouble. Dryfire is good, but live-fire is really necessary to get this thing down.

What your hands are already in motion to do while your subconscious brain tries to communicate with your conscious brain makes a difference, and what your hands need to be doing is taking advantage of the tools in them in the most efficient way possible.

I continued to use the BAD in matches and drills nights that I run, and designing stages and drills to take advantage of the lever in the emergency reload capacity. I have had at least one occasion on which to use the lever while clearing what appeared to be a doublefeed. It was, in fact, a stuck case that required much more remedial action than anything I carry in my hands or on the gun.

I have never experienced a failure to lock the bolt back on an empty magazine, to include Bravo Company USA GI magazines (both with and without Magpul followers), Magpul Pmags, Lancer L5, and Tango Down ARC, and while I did not keep records I would estimate that all told I have fired to bolt-hold-open (BHO) at least 15 times with the BAD installed.

I ordered the Phase 5 Tactical EBRv1 in early July and received it promptly. After all of the above issues with installation I was finally ready to get it out to the range, but the South Florida weather was not cooperating and the July South Florida Defensive Carbine match on the 28th was the first opportunity I got to run it.

This video shows my first live-fire with the EBR which included two emergency reloads and one transition to pistol for a total of 3 BHO. The bolt locked back successfully every time. However, the second time I ran this stage (it was a head-to-head stage) the bolt failed to lock to the rear on the second reload, thereby costing me the win.

This video shows Stage Three from that night where again I performed two emergency reloads and the bolt locked back both times. This makes for a total of 8 BHO with one failure to lock back. Certainly not catastrophic, but not ideal either. More testing and more firing will be necessary to determine if that one time was a fluke or if the added weight of the Phase 5 EBRv1 is problematic.

In addition to this, I have also come to appreciate the looseness of the BAD over the EBR. Not only to I believe that the looseness of the BAD allows the bolt catch to operate more reliably because it has more freedom of movement, but I have also found that it cuts down on accidental closing of the bolt.

Contrary to the video above I typically transition to handgun with the ejection port facing in towards my body, and walk around slung up that way as well. This means that the protrusion of the lever is also facing my body.

We are required to run a cold range at the facility where we conduct drills and matches, which means that when walking around the carbines must be unloaded and preferably the bolt locked to the rear. I never once had an issue with the BAD causing the bolt to drop yet I have had to constantly fight with the EBR.

I can only assume that the looseness allows the BAD to have that little bit of extra wiggle room that lets it move rather than transfer the bump to the bolt catch.

Conclusions

Summed up in one sentence: The Phase 5 Tactical EBRv1 is exactly what it appears to be; a reverse-engineered and lesser copy of the original SDI/Magpul BAD.

It is clear that Travis knew exactly what he was doing when he designed the BAD and that he incorporated that knowledge very well into the design. The Phase 5 version looks, feels, and operates like a beta-test version of something where the kinks haven’t all been worked out and the base knowledge isn’t there.

However, the Phase 5 is available now, and the BAD is…. well it’s in the hands of Magpul, with all of the good and bad that goes along with that. In the good news department they had a plastic version at SHOT, although not available for photographs, that would indicate that they are making progress.

Some students of Magpul Dynamics are also reporting back seeing various versions in Travis’s hands at class, which is also encouraging.

I have a Morrigan Consulting Carbine CQC course with Bill Jeans coming up in September of 2009 at the Southern Exposure Training Facility in Lakeland, FL and I intend to run one or both of these levers for some or all of the class.

I will continue to evaluate and determine if, despite all of it’s seeming shortcomings, the Phase 5 delivers on it’s 2/3 functionality at least.

I am also hoping that the Tango 5 version mentioned in the beginning of this article will be available either by the time of that class or shortly thereafter to add to the mix and sort out. Time, and rounds downrange, will tell.

Acknowledgment

ITS Tactical would like to thank Rob Sloyer of TacticalYellowVisor.net for his in-depth and well researched guest-post.

Sloyer’s writing focuses on building, competing, and training with handguns and rifles as they pertain to self, family, and homeland defense. His articles have most recently been featured in S.W.A.T. Magazine.

While shooting accurately under stress is not a new concept, it’s one that’s very important to consider working into your training.

There’s never a time in a real world situation where using a firearm is stress-free, no matter if you’re Law Enforcement, Military or just a concealed-carry citizen forced to act.

In every stressful situation, shot placement is key. On top dealing with mental and physical fatigue, you have to put down the threat as quickly and efficiently as possible while maintaining your situational awareness, scanning for that next possible threat.

What sparked this post was an excellent video posted on the CrossFit workout of the day for 07/16/09, called “Helen Get Your Gun.” <– Watch this video!

If you’re familiar with the CrossFit workout Helen, then you’ll see that they substituted the regular pull-ups in the workout for push-press due to most ranges not having a pull-up bar.

Something we really love about this workout is that it’s easily reproducible at any range.

All it requires is in addition to the regular equipment you take to the range is a Kettlebell (or dumbell), Olympic Weight Lifting Bar and the amount of weight you’ll be using on the bar.

While “Helen Get Your Gun” is “bringing the gym to the range,” an alternative is “bringing the range to the gym,” as shown below in Military Athlete’s video which combines a high intensity workout with simunition shooting.

What different things have you been doing to introduce stress into your shooting?

Witness marks are used to mark the alignment of optics to give you a quick visual reference of where they go back on your weapon if removed. This is particularly handy if you’re using a quick-disconnect mount, such as a LaRue mount, on a rail system.

Without getting into zeroing your weapon too much, these marks will make it easier to re-zero if you have to take your optics off for any reason. LaRue mounts are great, but you should always recheck your zero if you have the time and opportunity to after removing and remounting an optic.

Witness marks are also handy for marking your screws/bolts on your weapon to give a visual reference of any screw-loosening shenanigans your weapon might be playing with you.

We favor DecoColor paint markers here at ITS because they seem to last better than other brands, and you can get them in various tip sizes.

Magpul Dynamics is a tactical training company with a curriculum focused on Military, Law Enforcement and Private Sector professional skill sets, which operates under the umbrella of Magpul Industries.

For those of you who don’t know, Magpul started in 1999 with an item of the same name designed to improve the speed of tactical magazine changes. From their success with the “Magpul” they have branched into other tactical accessories like stocks, grips and the popular PMAG polymer AR15/M16 magazine.

While we haven’t had a chance to attend one of Magpul Dynamics’ courses, we highly recommend the DVD that they released. The Art of the Tactical Carbine Vol. 1 is a 3-disc DVD set featuring live fire class instruction. While some parts may seem trivial to experienced shooters, there is great information on the mindset of tactical shooting as well as a wealth of drills to practice on your own.

They have just also released a trailer for their not yet released second volume of The Art of the Tactical Carbine as shown below:

When is the last time you shot?