Survival Knife Help
Posted 16 February 2014 - 03:28 PM
"The Six things your knive must be able to do - 1. Be at least a 5" blade. 2. Be High Carbon Steel. 3. Be Full Tang. 4. Have a 90 Degree Spine. 5. Strike with Flint. 6. Be a NON Coated blade."
Posted 16 February 2014 - 03:49 PM
Knives are dependent on the user... Id stay away from most of the cheaper stuff that you can buy as most of it will not have the ability to survive the course.
I use a Fox Parang personally but its a bit large and has some inherent flaws:
- Cant use it for gutting effectively
- Cant use it for fine work
One thing though that you cant really beat is anything in the Esee knives line. Great utilitarian blades that will outlast your great grand kids. Then there is a whole plethora of knives at TOPs that are great as well. I used a Tops Tom Brown Tracker for a long time until it was stolen off my desk at work. It had the same flaws as the parang above. Its why i usually carry my parang and my Leatherman. One for gross work, building shelters etc. The other for gutting, cleaning, fine motor work. The other downfall is most of the knives that are worth it, including the ones I mentioned above are $150 bucks or more.
Posted 09 March 2014 - 01:48 PM
Posted 09 March 2014 - 05:47 PM
Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:18 PM
Posted 09 March 2014 - 07:16 PM
Is the BK10 a better all arounder than the BK2?
Posted 09 March 2014 - 08:44 PM
Posted 10 March 2014 - 02:19 PM
I would say get the Gerber LMF II but it has a coated blade I beleive it meets all the other requirements. I used one in the survival school we are required to take up here and had zero issues with it and I beat it to hell batoning through logs and such. That said I am sure you will get some great options here.
Posted 10 March 2014 - 03:00 PM
Posted 10 March 2014 - 04:03 PM
"I may walk among the sheep...but make no mistake, I am the sheepdog."
Posted 31 March 2014 - 11:01 PM
Posted 01 April 2014 - 05:43 AM
Posted 16 April 2014 - 04:31 AM
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