Water Purification, First Aid Kits and Cigars – Gear Tasting 90

When it comes to purifying water, you always want to ensure your method is removing all the contaminants. Today on Gear Tasting, Bryan offers his thoughts on the differences between mechanical and chemical filtration, as well as what all those things are you’re removing from the water.

Bryan also answers some Questions Over Coffee, including his “tactical” sun glass preference, thoughts on first aid kits for the home and his favorite cigars. Continue reading

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The Spyderco SpydieChef: A Versatile Chef’s Knife in Your Pocket

I’ll preface this article, by saying that I really like Spyderco and what they do. I’m also a big fan of Marcin Slysz, the talented knife maker who’s the designer of the Spyderco SpydieChef. He’s a humble guy living in the South of Poland and his shop must be one of the simplest professional knife making shops I’ve ever seen (considering he’s been professionally making knives for a living for about a decade now).

I’m also a sucker for titanium frame lock folders, so you can easily guess my reaction when I received my SpydieChef, I fell in love instantly. However, despite my immediate love, I decided to wait and use it for awhile before writing a proper reality-based user review. Now after more than six months, I’m ready to share my thoughts, so grab your coffee and enjoy the review. Continue reading

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Beyond the Packing List – Gear Tasting Radio 16

Whether it’s a firearms training class, adventure race or other gear-related activity, chances are there will be a packing list. While your packing list might be all inclusive, this week on Gear Tasting Radio, we discuss going beyond the list with a core group of items we’ll have on us no matter what.

In addition to some must-bring items, Bryan, Jordan and Rob discuss some of the methodology they apply to both events and packing lists.

Continue reading

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Cache is King: Learn How to Plan and Create Your Own Survival Cache

1 of 3 in the series Cache is King

The world is a dangerous place and will continue to be so for the foreseeable future. Hordes of displaced refugees are a common sight these days in the media. Witnessing refugee movement firsthand convinced me beyond any doubt that I never want to become one of those desperate individuals, totally dependent upon the generosity and charity of others for survival. A system of well reasoned caches should provide a degree of insurance against becoming a refugee for whatever the cause, be it home invasion, infrastructure collapse, or even war.

Throughout history, various methods have been devised to preserve options against future uncertainty by ensuring continued access to food, water, tools and technology. Early man no doubt learned the value of caches by observing squirrels hoarding nuts for the winter, dogs hiding food, the pack rat in its midden and similar animal behavior.

The invention of portable wealth, such as paper money and coins, made it easier to hide in the earth as a countermeasure against theft. Maps to locations of clandestinely buried pirate treasure (a form of monetary cache) are legend. Valued intellectual property was often cached against destruction and this behavior is truly ancient.

The Dead Sea Scrolls of the Essenes are a well known example of first and second century Christian scriptures cached in the dry desert caves of Qumran. In fact, these caches were so well concealed that they remained hidden for almost two millennia before being discovered.

Items Worth Caching

What sort of items might someone wish to cache? Food and water have been cached for as long as man has sought to preserve future options. A modern food and water cache might include freeze dried food for immediate energy, vegetable seeds for planting, containers of preserved water and technology to produce potable water.

Often associated with food and water is fire, so a cache might also include technology to rapidly produce fire. As dehydrated food is normally combined with water and then heated, a cache might also include a container in which to cook the food. Cutting instruments, such as knives, are used to process fuel for the building of a fire, as well as for processing of food.

The greatest risk to your caches isn’t accidental discovery…

So at minimum, a cache should include a fixed blade knife and sheath. A well reasoned food cache might also include fishing equipment, which would include a gill net and high quality stainless steel snares.

Each cache should also include a mechanism to transport its contents away from the cache, be it a net bag or sophisticated ruck.

Man has developed a plethora of technological force multipliers, many of which are well suited for caching. These include optical instruments, such as a +4 or greater diopter convex lens. With care, these will last for generations and provide a means of rapidly producing fire, binoculars, telescopic sights for firearms, radios and time keeping devices for coordination of effort.

Caches can also include various weapons (with associated ammunition, maintenance equipment and spares) for projecting force over distance, night vision and thermal imaging equipment (serious force multipliers), navigation tools such as GPS, compass and paper maps of the area of operation. All are prime candidates for caching.

Planning a Cache

A well developed cache plan will include a measure of redundancy between caches. With increasing distance from the normal area of operation, the cache should include more and more diverse items, such as specialized medical supplies, seasonal clothing, boots, combat helmets, large rucks and portable shelters.

Such a plan may even include vehicles hidden in a CONEX Box for rapid exfiltration, complex weapon systems and of course that most liquid of social lubricant, money. Every intelligently designed cache system should include local currency and precious commodities, such as silver and gold. The system should also include extra keys to the residence, gate and outbuilding locks, keys for automobiles, tractors and utility vehicles, along with identity documentation and copies of all titles.

Each system of caches should include recovery tools and a coded library of descriptions and locations of each cache. This centrally located cache might include a short handled shovel, garden trowel, compass, measuring tape, sturdy gloves, a small canvas tarp to kneel upon when recovering a cache, etc. A sample of such a coded map will be provided in a subsequent article. Whenever possible, I prefer to laminate all paper and other easily destroyed documents chosen for inclusion into a cache.

As this cache contains coded instructions to all other caches, it should be hidden quite well, but in a location that can’t be forgotten. The greatest risk to your caches isn’t accidental discovery by a third party; it’s forgetting where those caches are hidden. I’ll repeat, the greatest risk to your caches is not accidental discovery; it’s forgetting where those caches were emplaced.

Selecting a Location

Each cache location should be photographed and its location discreetly fixed by at least three measured distances and compass bearings from permanent geological features. This location should include a written description of the cache location when approached from a particular line of bearing and may include distance and bearings from non-geologic features such as well established trees (further identified by a notch cut in the bark facing away from the cache). Trees get cut down and struck by lightning, so depending on them for a location should be minimized.

A scheme to further conceal the actual cache location should be encoded in the written location description. A scheme might transpose 8 and 4, 5 and 7, etc. for both bearings and distances. It should go without saying, but I’ll mention for emphasis, just like the recovery cache location, the encoding methodology should be unforgettable.

A side benefit of deep burial is resistance to detection by metal detectors.

Some of the best locations for caches are in national and state forests, or on other public land. The best season for cache emplacement is often during the winter when the brush is minimum.

However, photographs of the cache location in both winter and summer make for much easier retrieval. Placing a cache on your own land is definitely less desirable, although this might be the best option for the above mentioned kind of cache.

Others have buried caches in the right-of-way, alongside rarely traveled roads, in cemetery plots and even in ponds or lakes. A cache, other than one designated for money and personal documents, should be of unidentifiable origin if discovered by a third party. I recommend carefully cleaning all items so as to remove fingerprints, hairs and other biologically identifiable residue, before inclusion in the cache.

This countermeasure to third party identification extends to the cache container as well and especially to handling the cache tube cap sealing tape; the adhesive portion of tape often retains an imprint of latents if handled carelessly. Obviously, any serialized items included in any federal database will point a flaming arrow back to the owner of those items.

The best practice caches are buried with the top below the frost line to preserve temperature equilibrium inside the cache, but caches can be concealed in junk yards, buildings, or with clever design, in plain sight. By burying the cache below the frost line, one minimizes the chance of breach by weight of animal hoof and thermal damage due to forest fire. A side benefit of deep burial is resistance to detection by metal detectors.

Containers for Caches and Making the Hole

What kind of containers make for the best caches? Being watertight, mechanically sound and corrosion resistant are just some of the criteria. In the recent past, caches were often constructed of schedule 40 PVC pipe. This pipe, when appropriately sealed, met all of the aforementioned criteria, but in larger sizes becomes quite heavy. Several long rifles may require a PVC pipe that’s 12 inches in diameter and five feet in length. This type of pipe is readily available from commercial irrigation vendors.

This pipe with end caps and contents (including ammunition) may easily weigh in excess of 200 pounds. It will also need a large hole in the earth for burying. Emplacement and recovery of such a cache might even require two or more people. There are commercially produced cache tubes that offer a gamma seal type o-ring lid and a second protective cap over the lid. These are well designed and constructed, making them considerably lighter than similarly sized PVC tubes. However, he weight savings is accomplished by reducing the mechanical integrity, so caches using Monovault commercial type containers should be buried vertically upright.

The easiest way to make the cache hole is by tractor powered auger. This can be accomplished by use of post hole diggers, even in rocky and heavily rooted forests and manually digging the hole requires considerable effort. Additional protection for cached weapons is required and will be described in a following article.

Five or six gallon buckets with gamma seal lids can be used to store clothing, boots and combat helmets. Although waterproof, these buckets are mechanically weak, so special care must be taken when burying. A silicone weatherproof seal such as RTV may be used to create a waterproof lid seal without using the more expensive gamma seals. I also carefully remove all rocks from the backfill and try to line the outside of the plastic bucket with sand before covering.

Two .50 cal ammunition cans will fit within some buckets and the plastic bucket serves only to protect the otherwise watertight and mechanically rigid (but corrodible) metal ammunition cans from contact with ground water. Plastic buckets with ammo cans inside make great long term bulk ammunition caches.

Both the Monovault and plastic buckets have circumferential notches near the mouth. Using a Bowline Knot, I tie a 3/8” diameter polypropylene rope in this notch and wrap six feet of line around the container. The purpose of this rope is for recovery of the cache container. You can tie another bowline at an appropriate distance and use a Hi-Lift Jack to forcibly remove a buried container from the ground.

Closing

Caches may be further divided into groups based upon immediacy of potential use. Somewhere on my property is a shallow weapons cache with the express purpose of providing immediate access to the tools necessary to take back the residence if overrun and forced out unexpectedly; or should the residence otherwise be occupied by a hostile force while away. Further from the residence are caches of better force projectors, optics and night vision, but the purpose of this close shallow buried cache is for quick access to weapons.

Future cache articles will provide specific details as how to prepare cache contents for decades long storage and offer some specific recommendations as what might be stored. The use of ZCORR Weapon Bags, desiccant and other protective measures, including how to secure the top cap of a Monovault tube will also be discussed. Due to the risk of electronic equipment injury or death as a result of EMP or a Carrington Event, another article will be devoted to preparing high order protection for your valuable electronic force multipliers.

Editor-in-Chief’s Note:Please join us in welcoming Steve V. as a contributor on ITS. Steve retired from a tri-letter US Government organization and has been elected to the bench. He’s flown ski planes onto glaciers high in the Swiss Alps and landed in the grassy meadows on cliffs near La Dame Blanch; hunted lion and other dangerous game in the hot plains of equatorial East Africa, stag in Scotland and bear in the Aleutians. He’s peered into a cradle of mankind at Olduvai Gorge in the Great Rift Valley, danced with Maasai and walked with curiosity throughout much of the world.

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Hot Dog or Not Hot Dog – #THEITSLIFE 03

This past weekend, Bryan, Rob and Jordan participated in the GORUCK Constellation Event and while we can’t show you too much for OPSEC reasons, we’ve included the footage we can show you.

In addition, we showcased some behind the scenes action from the ITS Warehouse and give you a look at a blast from the past hitting the ITS Store this week!

#THEITSLIFE offers a behind the scenes look at everything ITS. It’s a candid view of the ITS Crew and the shenanigans that take place on a daily basis.

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Support a Great Organization and Honor the Fallen with the ITS Carry the Load Morale Patch

Today, we’re proud to be bringing back an extremely limited run of the ITS Carry the Load Morale Patch to support a great organization and honor our fallen.

Every Memorial Day weekend in Dallas, Carry the Load hosts a wonderful event honoring our nation’s fallen. In addition to this annual event, the organization works throughout the year fundraising for numerous veteran and first responder programs. Continue reading

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Appendix Options and How to Tie Your Boots – Gear Tasting 89

Appendix carry has gained a lot of popularity in recent years and today on Gear Tasting, Bryan walks through some of the options he’s currently evaluating.

In addition to the holsters, Bryan answers some Questions Over Coffee, including an in-depth demonstration of the Mountaineering method for tying boots and why he doesn’t worry so much about keeping chemlights in their protective wrappers.

In each episode of Gear Tasting, Imminent Threat Solutions Editor-in-Chief Bryan Black answers your gear-related questions and shares his insight into what we’re currently evaluating at ITS HQ.

For more on the gear we review, check out our GEARCOM category here on ITS.

To have your gear related question answered on an upcoming episode, tweet us using the poundtag #GearTasting on Twitter.

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This Summer, Get Outdoors and Make Your Own Adventure

For many people, summer means manning the grill, swimming in the pool, or just soaking up the sun’s rays. However, for some of us, summer means adventure. Some of those adventures include packing up and heading across the country, but sometimes things are happening in our own backyard.

Today on ITS, we’ll be covering some skills and tools that can improve your experience, no matter how big or small. This summer, we challenge you to make time to set out on your own adventure. After all, you never know what’s waiting for you in the great outdoors! Continue reading

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Firestarting in the Field – Gear Tasting Radio 15

Whether you’re out camping or truly in a survival situation, starting a fire is one of the best skills you can master. This week on Gear Tasting Radio, Bryan, Rob and Jordan discuss firestarting in the field and why you should practice it as often as you can.

In addition to the the skills behind starting a fire, they also discuss some of the best tools to have on hand and what they prefer when it comes to gear for getting the fire going.

Continue reading

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Turn Your Trash Into Treasure with These DIY Cardboard Range Targets

Recent changes in culture and technology have made it more convenient and cheaper than ever to order goods and have them delivered directly to your home. However, any paradigm shift brings compromises. We spend more money than we should accumulating things we might not really need; our homes and recycling bins fill up with more packing material. In addition, the air quality suffers from the fuel burned by delivery trucks making more stops to nearly every building.

If you’re like me, you try to reduce your waste as much as possible by turning trash into treasure. In this article, I’ll show you how to reuse the cardboard from large boxes to make IDPA/IPSC-style cardboard targets. While these targets aren’t typically expensive ($0.25-$.75 each), they’re bulky, which results in shipping costs that offset the value and price-per-target. There’s definitely an argument to be made that your free time is worth more than the price of these targets and that’s completely valid and fair. However, I believe there are other benefits, some of which are difficult to put a price on, that may convince you that it’s still worth your time.

  • ITS has written before about how large boxes from high-ticket items (such as televisions) can make you a target for burglars.
  • Spare boxes are the perfect material for this project, as they’re almost identical to the material in IDPA/IPSC-style cardboard targets!
  • Every firearm owner will benefit from training and having a pile of targets available will increase your opportunity to do so.
  • You could use some exercise, fresh air and sunshine. Get outside and work with your hands.

Tools Needed

  • Pencil
  • Razor/Box Cutter (I prefer the adjustable kind w/snap blades)
  • Target Template
  • Cardboard (Thick enough to handle but not so thick that staples won’t go through it.)
  • Gloves (optional but recommended)

Start by flattening out your cardboard material. Cut along one or two seams to open it up into one or two large pieces. This helps to maximize the material, getting as many targets as possible from the box.

Next, use an existing target as a template to trace the outline onto your material. I find that a pencil works better on cardboard than a pen or a sharpie. Remember, your trace marks and cuts don’t have to be perfect, as you’re going to shoot it full of holes later on!

Please Note: If you don’t have a target to use as a template, that’s ok. You can use a ruler and straight edge to draw and cut the first one by hand. Click here to see the official IPSC Target Dimension for reference.

Once you’ve got the template traced on all of your cardboard, it’s time to start cutting. As with any project, it’s best to use the right tool for the job. Cardboard can dull an edge quickly, so don’t use your carry knife for this project, use a box cutter. Speaking of box cutters and razor blades, these are often the most dangerous tools in the shop.

If you slip while cutting towards yourself, you can end up with a nasty wound, blood all over your targets and a trip to the hospital (which will totally ruin the cost/benefit ratio). Exercise caution! Be mindful of your cutting direction, wear gloves, have a first-aid kit nearby and your mother on speed-dial.

I also recommend making these cuts on a surface that you don’t care about. If you slice into your carpet, hardwood floors, or tiles your significant other won’t be thrilled.

Since we’re working with large pieces of cardboard, they can be unwieldy to spin around and make each cut. Start by making long straight cuts, just through the first side of cardboard, with the intent of breaking the large pieces down into smaller pieces. Save the detail cuts and trimming for the end.

This process will also avoid the creation of a target silhouette, which might tip-off dumpster diving criminals that there are guns in your home.

After you’ve cut the first side of the cardboard, flip it over and bend the material along the cut. This will make it easy for you to slide the razor along the back side of the cardboard and it’ll come apart easily.

Continue breaking the material down in this manner until you’re left with a finished target. Put it onto a pile and move on to the next piece.

Once you’re finished, you’ll be left with a pile of targets and minimal scrap cardboard that should easily fit into your recycling bin (or additional project). Now you can draw some score lines onto it or put on sticker targets. Be sure to keep your best target to use as a template in the future!

Editor-in-Chief’s Note: Please welcome Eric Higgins as a contributor on ITS. Eric lives in the Pacific Northwest, where he hacks on digital and physical devices. He enjoys shooting precision rifles, making a mess of his kitchen and spending time in the wilderness with his dog.

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